Hair Types & Oils – Choosing the Right Care

Hair and scalp have very different needs. While some people struggle with oily roots, others deal with dry ends, fine hair lacking volume, or a sensitive scalp that reacts easily. This is exactly why there is no one-size-fits-all solution when it comes to hair care.

Essential oils and carrier oils can be a valuable addition to traditional hair care routines when they are used selectively, chosen according to the hair type, and applied correctly. They do not replace shampoo or professional hair care, but they can support the scalp and hair structure and help improve the overall appearance of the hair.

Below, you’ll find an overview of the most common hair types and the oils that have proven useful in practice.

1. Oily scalp & flaky hair

Typically, the roots become oily quickly, often after a short period of time, while the lengths remain normal or even dry. The goal is to balance the scalp without causing further irritation or dryness.

Suitable essential oils

• Tea Tree: Supports a clear, clean scalp environment and is commonly used for unbalanced or dandruff-prone scalps. Well suited for regular use when properly diluted.

• Cedarwood: Balancing and calming, supporting the scalp’s natural sebum balance. Very well suited for ongoing, consistent care.

• Peppermint: Provides a fresh, cooling sensation on the scalp. Best used sparingly or in short courses, as overuse may overstimulate the scalp.

• Lemon / Grapefruit: Used for their clarifying properties, especially for oily scalps. Apply sparingly and avoid use on the scalp before direct sun exposure.

• Eucalyptus: Refreshing and clarifying, commonly used for scalps that feel heavy or over-conditioned. Not recommended for continuous use; best suited for targeted, short-term applications.

Suitable carrier oils

• Jojoba oil: Very light, absorbs well and is particularly suitable for oily scalps.

• Argan oil (for the lengths only): Ideal if the ends are dry.

2. Dry, damaged, or stressed hair

Typical signs: Hair appears dull, rough, or brittle, is prone to split ends, and often feels “straw-like.” Color-treated, bleached, or heavily processed hair is particularly affected.

Suitable Essential Oils

• Lavender: Very versatile and well tolerated. Supports both scalp and hair care and is suitable for regular use.

• Frankincense: Commonly used to care for dry lengths and ends, supporting a healthy-looking, well-groomed appearance.

• Sandalwood: Especially suitable for very dry or brittle hair. Nourishing and conditioning without being harsh or irritating.

• Myrrh: A more intensive conditioning oil for very dry or sensitive scalps. Best suited for targeted applications rather than daily use.

• Patchouli: Nourishing and grounding, often used for very dry scalps or dull-looking hair. Particularly suitable for natural hair, curls, or mature scalps; better for occasional rather than continuous use.

Suitable Carrier Oils

Argan Oil: Well established for caring for dry lengths and ends, nourishing the hair without weighing it down.

Coconut Oil: Suitable for very dry, thick, or curly hair. Less suitable for fine or bleached hair, as it may weigh the hair down or make it feel stiff.

3. Fine or thin hair

Typical signs: Fine hair tends to lie flat quickly, appears lifeless, and reacts sensitively to heavy hair care products. Lightness and balance are key.

Suitable Essential Oils

• Rosemary: Supports scalp care without weighing the hair down. Well suited for regular use.

• Peppermint: Provides freshness and lightness. Use very sparingly, as fine hair can otherwise appear dry.

• Geranium: Balancing and nourishing without adding heaviness. Very well suited for fine hair.

• Lemongrass: Gives the hair a fresh, clean feel. Should be used sparingly and not on a continuous basis, as it may have a drying effect.

Suitable Carrier Oils

Jojoba Oil: Very lightweight and ideal for fine hair.

Argan Oil (used very sparingly): Suitable for dry ends without weighing the hair down.

4. Hair growth, fullness & stronger-looking hair

Typical signs: Hair appears tired, loses elasticity, or feels lifeless. The focus here is on supporting scalp care and maintaining a healthy hair environment.

Suitable Essential Oils

• Rosemary: Frequently used to stimulate the scalp and support a healthy hair environment. Well suited for regular use when properly diluted.

• Clary Sage: Supports the care of lifeless hair and is commonly used when increased volume is desired. Also suitable for regular use.

• Ylang Ylang: Nourishing and balancing, especially beneficial for the hair lengths. Supports a smooth, healthy-looking hair appearance.

• Basil: Refreshing and invigorating, traditionally used for tired or sluggish-looking scalps. Supports scalp care and can help hair appear more vibrant overall.

Warming Specialty Oils

(Targeted use only)

These oils are strongly warming and stimulating. They are not intended for regular use, but rather for selective, highly diluted applications used in short courses. Individuals with sensitive skin or sensitive scalps should generally avoid these oils.

• Ginger: Intensely warming and activating. Traditionally used to stimulate sluggish or tired scalps and support a healthy hair environment.

• Clove: Very intense and strongly warming. Can be used in minimal amounts for targeted scalp activation.

• Cinnamon: One of the most potent warming essential oils. Used only in very low doses and for short-term, targeted scalp stimulation.Not suitable for sensitive, dry, or irritated scalps.

5. Sensitive or sensitive scalp

Typical signs: The scalp reacts quickly and may feel tight, dry, or uncomfortable. The guiding principle here is to be as gentle as possible.

Suitable Essential Oils

• Roman Chamomile: Very mild and well tolerated, especially suitable for scalps that react easily.

• LavenderBalancing and calming, well suited for regular use.

• Helichrysum: Traditionally used to care for sensitive skin and suitable for targeted applications on sensitive scalps.

Suitable Carrier Oils

• Jojoba Oil: Skin-like in composition and very well tolerated.

• Argan Oil: Nourishing and soothing, supporting a comfortable scalp feel.

Instructions for use:

How to Integrate Oils into Your Hair Care Routine

Essential oils and carrier oils can be easily incorporated into your existing hair care routine. What matters most is not the quantity used, but choosing the right oils and applying them regularly and mindfully.

General Guidelines

• Essential oils should always be used diluted

• Less is more, especially for sensitive scalps

• Choose carrier oils according to your hair type (light vs. rich)

Everyday Application Options

Scalp Oil: Mix a small amount of carrier oil with 1–3 drops of essential oil, gently massage into the scalp, and leave on before washing.

Hair Oil for Lengths & Ends: Rub 1–2 drops of argan or jojoba oil between your palms and apply sparingly to the ends.

Shampoo or Conditioner Additive: Add 1 drop of essential oil to a single portion of shampoo or conditioner (not the entire bottle).

Scalp Care After Washing: Apply a very lightly diluted oil directly to the roots, particularly helpful for dry or sensitive scalps.

Hair Care That Fits Your Hair

Not all hair needs the same care, and this is where the true advantage of essential oils and carrier oils lies. They can be individually selected, combined, and adjusted to suit your specific needs. Whether you have an oily scalp, dry ends, fine hair, or are looking to support volume, the right oils can complement and enhance your hair care routine.

It’s not about using as many products as possible, but about using the right ones. Your hair will quickly show you what works best for it.

Notice

The applications described are intended for healthy adults and are meant to support cosmetic and skincare routines. They do not replace medical or dermatological treatment.

Get the 2-page overview here.